Diving in Costa Rica
There are more than 25 dive sites around the Gulf of Papagayo within a half-hour boat ride of dive centers. Many of these sites feature shallow to mid-range profiles sites and are suitable for divers of all skill levels, as strong currents or surge are rare. At Mirador, white tip sharks can be found resting on ledges and in a shadowy cave. Nearby waters teem with schools of grunts, snapper, king angelfish, and sergeant majors. The rock spire known as Monkey Head drops sharply into the water to create steep cliffs frequented by passing schools of eagle rays and stingrays. The submerged pinnacle at Meros was named for its resident goliath grouper but more often holds small creatures. The rocky fingers of Punta Argentina are also home to a variety of small finds such as nudibranchs and frogfish, while the waters overhead are clouded by swarms of schooling tropical fish. The big ticket dives in the area take place on two island groups located to the south and north. The Catalina archipelago includes 20 small volcanic islands are famous for giant Pacific mantas with wingspans of up to 20 feet. The months from January to March are considered prime time for schooling mantas, but they may be present throughout the year. These same waters hold an impressive array of the manta's smaller cousins. Cow-nose rays show up in schools of 100 or more, along with groups of spotted eagle rays and mobula rays, plus turtles and shoals of horse-eye jacks. Seasonal upwellings of nutrient-rich waters also bring in spinner dolphins, pilot whales and the occasional whale shark. During surface intervals, it's common to see rays leaping from the water in what is thought to be an attempt to rid themselves of parasites. Because water conditions and currents in the Catalinas can change quickly, it is recommended that divers have some experience in open-water boat diving. Also within range of dive operators in the Gulf of Papagayo are the Bat Islands. Located offshore of Santa Rosa National Park, these islands are a protected marine reserve that holds dense populations of fish, along with many of the same big animals as the Catalinas—plus one. The site known as Big Scare is one of the best places in the world to find gatherings of mature bull sharks, which can reach lengths of up to 10 feet. Trips to the Bat islands can be weather dependent, and are most often scheduled in the months from May to November when there is less likelihood of westerly winds. Far to the west, more than 300 miles from the Costa Rican mainland, the Cocos Islands rise from the deep Pacific to provide a gathering point for pelagic animals. Most famous are the vast schools of hammerhead sharks that gather around the seamount of Bajo Alcyone. Other common sightings include mobula rays, dolphin and reef white tip and silky sharks. And there is always the possibility of mantas and whale sharks. The Cocos Islands can be reached by liveaboard, with travel to the site usually taking around 36 hours. Divers who have made the trip agree that the experience is definitely worth the long boat ride.